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Afisha.ru. Nofar: Novikov and Lamberti at Badaevskiy brewery

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Restaurant critic Aleksander Ilyin tells about new project Nofar.

The obvious flaw of restaurant is only one: taxi drivers cannot find it in their tablets. Other points: location, cuisine, design, and even the fact that restaurant is situated in manufacture are a big advantage. Add to this Novikov’s telephone book and army of Lamberti admirers and you will receive absolute success.

It is important to understand that Uilliam Lamberti is not cooking there. Yes, he is responsible for the kitchen, but from another point of view. He doesn’t invent, but put in the correct boundaries. However some dishes bear the traits of his style. For example, artichoke salad with green pea, fennel, cucumber and almond (550 rubles) or smoked salmon salad (700 rubles). Both of dishes you can easily imagine in the menu of Uilliam’s. However, Lamberti claims that other people created this. They are Nofar Zohar, who made the kitchen and gave her name to the restaurant and Noam Kohen, the chef.

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Food

In the reality it is increasingly Israel place with the strong incline in Mediterranean. Look in the menu and you will see mezze made from typical Tel Aviv starters, assortment of hummuses, tomato tartar with tuna, «Shuk» salad… And here is tomato with red onion. You may also try hummus with mushrooms and onion (350 rubles) or with chicken liver (400 rubles). There is many tahini, many spices in it. Jews in Israel cook like this. Arabs and Berbers wish there were more chickpea in hummus.

In cannot be said that there are no Moroccan dishes at all. There are cigars made from fried puff pastry with chicken guts, tagines. Tagines are served with the plate of well-done couscous. There are more western there. And this will help restaurant to survive.

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Moroccan cuisine is not suitable for the Moscow restaurant. This cuisine is suitable for hard-living and hard-working people, who do not drink alcohol and tea without sugar, but who respect food. Throw a piece of bread on the ground is impossible for them. But it is possible to wait for tagine for 40 minutes drinking Coca-Cola.

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 Another difference from the authentic Moroccan cuisine is that dishes are not overcooked and there are fewer spices in them. Some dishes will like those people, who does not know what is Moroccan cuisine. Chicken luleh kebab (750 rubles) and lamb luleh kebab (900 rubles).

Design

In case of manufactures at the Badaevskiy brewery the main thing for the designer is not to touch the constructive part. There are two long parallel halls. Outside one with brick walls symbolizes Moroccan street. Inside one with white walls symbolizes atrium; it has a balcony with hookah. Tan for making beer creates special and very aggressive relief.

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Verdict

When Arkady Novikov stops stamping places in the style of «Valenok» and makes technically difficult, but emotionally warm place – it is happiness. Greater happiness is that Lamberti accompanies him.