ACTUALLY, EVERYTHING IS JUST FINE WITH “SEVERYANE”
SNC’s restaurant observer Sasha Sutormina – about a new restaurant
Only “Zhara” newspaper can afford not to write about “Severyane” that opened a couple weeks ago at Bol’shaya Nikitskaya st. next to the “Ugolek”. All the rest glamour, business, lifestyle, city and castaway press simply must do it on an impulse of incredible hype. Well, maybe not that incredible. It is the third restaurant opening by T’utenkov-Lamberti coalition that is accompanied by this hype.
Ingredients of success are the same:
– Buddhism, savage glance, black lousy trousers and endless “Well hello, come on in” (say hi to Ilya T’utenkov – chief restaurateur, friend and an icon of Moscow foodies),
– mezuzah on a wall, glasses, wisdom (Uilliam Lamberti is not quite a brand-chef anymore, but rather the supreme god of a gastronomy universe of several square kilometers at the very centre of the capital),
– dark walls, trembling light, narrowness, scuffed surfaces and extraordinary focus on details (interior – Natalya Belonogova, genius of Moscow restaurant design),
– thick wine glasses, plates that are not always handy, small planks, aged knives,
– decent comfort food (oil, salt, sugar, slightly sloppy serving, bake it in a stove, sprinkle some cheese atop),
– music that you want to Shazam from the first to the last track (you don’t have to – there are playlists on soundcloud), and the most important is
As a result there is an atmosphere that makes you understand – that’s it, you’re trapped. You will give away eight hundred rubles for a starter that is not the most nourishing, push your knees with inheritresses of fortunes in simple sneakers, progressive businessmen, officials that are stylish and residue of expat public from adjoining lanes.
And if it is impossible to be silent about “Severyane”’s opening, then here’s a catch: what to write exactly? It is weird to scold it and it is loath to praise it. The one solution that is graceful in its’ simplicity is to headline an article a-la “Vertigo of success” and to chide them sort of haughtily: T’utenkov’s and Lamberti’s places are not about food, not about food. And it has no sense, I’d say, in talking about food – there is nothing special in it.
Indeed. “Severyane” is not about food. And another evidence of it is that now the “Ilya and Uilliam” duet has grown to a size of a full trio. Until curly and impetuous Natalya Belonogova buys a “Supper”-like lamp by Ingo Maurer in Milan, until she puts a throne looking like one from “Game of thrones” at the head of a fully red table, until she paints walls in a dark-blue color, there is no restaurant.
“Severyane” is not about food. Still it is just silly to disclaim merit of a young chef Georgy Troyan. Try at least tartare with a buckwheat or peck at any of the desserts. Then we can talk.
It is pointless to deny sir Lamberi’s contribution to a domestic gastronomy as well – with an octopus from “Gallery” restaurant at the beginning of two thousandths, with all his technologies that were new for Moscow and a whole philosophy – thanks to which we can definitely speak about “Lamberti’s school” today.
“Severyane” is not about food. It is about geniuses. What else are those people who invest unimaginable for today’s restaurant market millions in each project? Those who open a restaurant for half a year and create the best possible PR by that? Those who decide to bring 19th century’s stoves from American middle of nowhere to put them couple kilometers from the Kremlin, in “Ugolek”? And then, as though it had not been enough trouble, decide to put a Russian stove in “Ugolek”? Those who work through their menu for months – and who throw the best private parties of the city out of their elaborations – and this is – by god – “The Roof” from the days of our first youth. Restaurants that can be easily imagined in Hong Kong and San Francisco? What, you’re angry now? Keep calm and hate on.
T’utenkov, Lamberti – and Belonogova as well– they’re like Depeche Mode, which every album was followed by whole electronic music. “Severyane” is a new release. And it is already on top of the Billboard-chart.