IT IS CLEAR ALREADY THAT SOON IT WILL BE NOT THAT EASY TO BOOK A TABLE HERE
“Severyane” opening was expected for long: it was set aside, there was a number of test dines for close friends – they tried to find, to assay the signature taste, for the sake of which people will come here later. The new restaurant with more patriotic, rather than Scandinavian name, “warm and dear”, according to the restaurateur who opened it – Ilya Tutenkov (Pinch, Uilliam’s, Ugolek), claims already to be a new place, where you will need to book a table for a Friday dinner a couple weeks beforehand.
Brand-chef is logically Uilliam Lamberti, and a chef’s cap went to the last year winner of a young cooks’ competition “Silver triangle” – Georgy Troyan. It is him who does the magic together with the team next to a huge Russian stove. The restaurant itself, that is to the left of “Ugolek”, , is very dark in the evenings, despite enormous windows, with grilles, it has not that big traditional for Tutenkov and Lamberti open kitchen, bright dishes and waiters here are beautifully dressed by Tanya Mamedova, analogous to the figures from Malevich paintings. Apparently, that is why the restaurant, its food and name feel like fashionable Russian suprematism. What completes the impression is music, selected by Gera Topuridze (he is as well in charge of concerts and parties on the second floor of “Ugolek”): according to the owners, thanks to the chill-rave that plays here it feels like you are in a some kind of art-house movie (like Alex van Warmerdam’s “Die Noorderlingen”, 1922)
But what’s important here is still food: stove gives incredibly right taste to everything cooked in there, and it is hard to find fault in the ingredients combination. As a starter we strongly recommend beef tartare or celery root light salad, where celery is cut into noodles, with truffle (in case you do not eat meat). For the first course try dishes cooked in the stove first: bass with fennel, Black Sea turbot or Karelian trout. Meat lovers will enjoy stewed lamb shoulder blade with yoghurt and eggplant, and also a beef shortloin.